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I visited Shar Hashamaim three weeks ago. I walked up to the police guarding the exterior and asked to take photos (Forbidden, of course. I knew that from bad experience. That's common with protected sites. Try the American Embassy. The guards pointed to other attractive buildings in the neighborhood.) Then they let me inside where the Arab custodians, for a little baksheesh, let me snap away. That's common, too. The baksheesh: happens in a lot of photo-restricted monuments. So, yes, it is very much open. Everyone was polite, but you have to ask.
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